Greece has more than 3,000 islands, including islands, but only 167 are inhabited. Some tourist destinations are of primary importance. Crete, Rhodes, Mykonos, Kos, Santorini, Corfu, Kefalonia, to name the most famous. But in the vast archipelago's greek island "minor" that stands out for its exceptional prerogative is a omphalos, eg, a "navel" of the world. I speak of is the island of Patmos . I was there for two weeks in 2001 and ten years later the memory of that stay "mystical" is still vivid. I want to clarify, first of all, what it means to omphalos. In antiquity, the greek word which means "navel" pointed to a stone or an object of great spiritual value. As the stone was located in Delphi, the Temple of Apollo, from which the Pythia spread his prophecies. Later, by extension, omphalos any place on Earth has become loaded with a powerful spiritual energy. One example is Rapa Nui, better known as Easter Island, the locals called Te Pito, literally "navel of the world." On Earth, there are dozens of similar sites and one is certainly in the Aegean Sea. The island of Patmos is the northernmost of the Dodecanese islands and has always been regarded as a shining pearl. In fact, it is composed of three pearls, three barren islands suspended in waters glimmering and brought together only in recent times by narrow sandy isthmus. It is impossible not to be seduced by this stern-looking bare ground with little vegetation, mostly composed of low bushes and heathland plants, whose dark rocks stretch as the coils of a serpent, whose coasts are jagged as thoughts tormented, whose cliffs plunge into a barrel organ paper blue sea, whose beaches - some of which are only accessible on board the gulet - refuges are aristocrats. But it is equally impossible not to notice that the island, as it is beaten by a sun in the warmer months becomes ruthless and from the Meltemi, the relentless north wind that brings refreshment, is a sort of galvanic battery that recharges the chakras.
Patmos is exceptional only for its wild and rugged beauty, but especially for the randomness of sacredness and mystery that surrounds it. The reason is considered a holy place, and therefore attracts the spirits contemplative instead of mass tourism, is tied to its historical events. Patmos is a land of exile and reflection. According to legend, took refuge here Orestes pursued by the Furies. It is also the gym of asceticism by vocation and morphology, for twenty centuries has been known as the "Jerusalem of the Aegean" title reveals its religious and esoteric set. The fame of the island is inextricably linked to the figure of John the son of Zebedia, which he received in a cave by an angel sent by God "Revelation" on the last times. Its phantasmagorical and terrifying visions gave birth to the last, disturbing book of the New Testament: The 'Apocalypse .
In Roman times, and more specifically under the emperor Domitian, Patmos was a penal colony. From 95 to 97 there was banished the apostle and evangelist John, the "disciple whom Jesus loved" and that Dante calls "He who lay upon 'the breast of our Pelican (note Christ)." John was already very old and during his stay in Patmos made a habit of withdrawing to a cave to pray and deeply penetrate the mystery of the Word made man, full of grace and truth. In that cave, the "son of thunder" was in ecstasy and soon began to dictate its views to Prochoros, the helpful and devoted deacon according to an apocryphal text, Acts of John, had followed him to confinement and assisted him. The Book of Revelation, one of the most enigmatic works of literature ever written, I gave a key to unconventional in my book "The Apocalypse has come" , so I will not go. However I would like to point out that the place where John lived his mystical experience now stands a monastery. In the Middle Ages, the island of Patmos was abandoned due to pirate raids. In 1088 (the year of foundation of the monastery of Cluny!) Comnenus Alexius I transferred it to Monaco Latrenos Christodoulos, who landed here with three gold crisobulle emperor, who in addition to assign the island gave him an exemption from taxes and the construction of a monastery. In fact, he founded the monastery "Sanctus Joannes de Patmasa" as written in medieval Latin documents. A citadel of faith to become a major center of monastic life throughout the East and a bulwark of cultural resistance greek-orthodox in the centuries of Ottoman domination. Since then, the island experienced a great economic splendor and amassed enormous wealth through the trade of its powerful fleet. The monastery of San Giovanni, situated about half of the uphill road that leads from the port of Skala to the village of Chora, is the epicenter of the island and is the heart than the essence. The holy cave, that once Theokepasti and now known as Spileon tis Apokalipsis , is incorporated in a small sanctuary that disarms even the most hurried visitor, inviting to meditation. Aureole silver hollow and surreal show the rock where John rested his head to sleep and the niche that served as a lectern to his disciple Prochoros while transcribing the visions and prophecies of the seer. The atmosphere in the cave that smells of transcendence and induces all'autodafé. It is impossible to resist the temptation to kneel and admit their faults, their fears, their spiritual apathy. Here, as in a confessional examination, we feel the need to confess their sins directly to God, whose presence is palpable and only partially reassuring. Otherwise, what omphalos would it be?
The harbor is crowded with yachts and cruise ships. Skala is becoming increasingly sought after holiday destination by the international jet set (politicians, industrialists, actors, etc.)) and what is bad. However, Patmos retains its authenticity and neighborhoods back from the sea once again the feature of Greek architecture simple and serene, composed of whitewashed houses, windows, crayon, cascades of bougainvillea and white walls. Chora, however, is a beautiful medieval village, a maze of narrow streets and white houses dominated by the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos, which stands grim light above the magma of the houses. The interior of this massive complex of tight-looking medieval fortress, founded in 1088 by San Cristodolo, is an oasis of silence and peace, where you are welcomed by popi bearded and gentle. From the terrace of the monastery, when the weather is favorable, with a fantastic view to the Aegean. I was staying in a beautiful mansion in the picturesque town of Chora, and every morning I walked on the terrace of the house to make the daily ritual of Suryanamaskar , or the "sun salutation". That simple exercise I reconciled with the universe. In paying tribute to the rising of the sun was as if the energy of mother earth and sky came into me to recharge and cleanse. The colors and smells I was intoxicated, but especially the light, pure and warm, in awe. No less exciting was to assist from the large terrace overlooking the island at sunset on the waters of the Aegean, taking the colors of orange and purple. In the hour that "touches the core to the sailors' eyes are lost in the line between the sea and the sky and no longer distinguish the true nature of vessels. So my mind turned modern sailboats in the ancient galleys. I deluded to have sighted the fleet of the Argonauts and the ship of Ulysses. I heard the siren song.
"I love this above all Greece. It brings the color of my heart. Everywhere you look, lies buried a joy, "wrote the German poet Hölderlin. I could not share this assumption and to oziavo Psili Amos, a beautiful beach with high dunes reminiscent of a corner of the desert, whose name means "sandy." There, I also came to mind the words that turned to Pindar Hieron I, tyrant of Syracuse Genoio, and hoios . It means "Be who you are." Among the many memories of the island of Patmos this is perhaps the most instructive. Become an undertaking that has been anything but that easy and commonplace. But we are living the time announced by the Apocalypse of John. It must try.
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